Breguet Type XX

From French military order to civilian watch

Breguet submitted prototypes for the French aeronautical requirement in 1952, and the technical service approved them in 1953. The French Air Force ordered 1,100 watches in 1954, delivered between 1955 and 1959. A separate order of 80 went to the flight test centre for pilots in 1956 and 1957. The French Navy's Aéronautique Navale ordered 500 watches in 1958, and the last of them were delivered on January 13, 1960. These dates come from the Swatch Group's historical account of the Type XX.

The flyback function is the feature that defined the watch for its users. A flyback chronograph can be reset and restarted with a single press, which mattered for a pilot timing a sequence of events. Civilian sales began after the military contracts, and the watch was later offered in a second generation with a larger case and a black bezel from 1971. The last of that generation were sold in 1986.

The three generations and what they change

The first generation used Valjoux-based hand-wound chronographs until the early 1960s, when a modernized movement was introduced. The second generation brought a larger polished steel case and thicker lugs. The third generation began in 1995 with reference 3800, the Aéronavale, which has no date. It was followed by reference 3820, the Transatlantique, which adds a date. Both are self-winding, which is the single biggest mechanical difference from the vintage watches.

The brand's 2023 editions use the calibers 728 for the civilian version and 7281 for the military version, according to Swatch Group's account. If you are looking at an older piece, confirm the movement and the generation from the caseback and the dial before you contact a specialist, because a vintage chronograph and a modern automatic need very different work.

Servicing a flyback chronograph

A flyback chronograph has more going on than a standard chronograph, because the reset mechanism must return the hands to zero and restart them in one motion. A service should include the reset and the chronograph engagement, the pushers and their seals, and the column or cam system that controls the counters. Ask the watchmaker to test the flyback under load, since a reset that works on the bench can still jam once the watch is in the case.

For the modern 3800 and 3820 and the 2023 editions, Breguet's network is the safest first call for parts and for any work covered by warranty. A chronograph specialist who regularly works on flyback movements can also do the job well for a watch out of warranty. Vintage Type XX pieces with older Valjoux-based movements suit a watchmaker who has worked on that family before, because those parts and skills are less common.

Ask about the reset in the first conversation. A watchmaker who understands flyback function will want to know how the reset behaves in each position and whether the counters return to zero cleanly after a long run. A vague answer about the chronograph is a good reason to look for a different shop, since the reset is the function that most often fails after a poor service.

Buying a pre-owned Type XX

The military watches carry details that buyers look for, including a signed dial and a caseback engraved with the Marine Nationale or Aéronautique Navale inscription and a number within the 500-piece order. Those inscriptions are copied, so the engraving alone does not prove the watch is original. Check that the case, dial, hands and movement all fit the same period, and ask for the watch to be opened before any payment.

For the modern 3800 and 3820, check that the reference matches the papers and that the date function on a 3820 works correctly. Test the chronograph pushers and the reset, look for a flyback that does not restart cleanly, and examine the case for any mismatched screws or refinishing. Ask for the service history, because a Type XX that has been opened by a non-specialist is harder to value.

Originality and wear on a sporty chronograph

The Type XX was built to be read quickly, and its dial and hands are its most important features. Replacement hands and refinished dials can change the look enough to affect the value, especially on a watch with a military history. A case that has been polished heavily loses the sharp edges of the lugs and the character of the original design, so ask for the case to be inspected for previous work before you agree on a service plan.

Early military watches also differed from one another. The Air Force examples had a 30-minute totalizer, while the test-centre and naval examples had 15-minute counters. When a seller describes a particular provenance, check the totalizer and the dial against that description rather than trusting the story alone.

Replace the strap and bracelet with genuine or period-correct parts where you can, and keep the original box and papers together. When you send the watch for service, ask the shop to note every part replaced and to keep removed parts if you want them. A documented chronograph with its original dial and hands is easier to sell, and easier to trust, than one with an unclear history.

What to check on a Breguet Type XX

• A chronograph specialist who has worked on flyback movements
• Confirmation of the generation and movement from the caseback and dial
• A pre-purchase inspection that tests the reset and the pushers, not only the time

Common questions