Watch Straps & Accessories

The lug width is the gap between the two lugs where the strap attaches, measured in millimeters, and most watches use an even number such as 18, 20 or 22. A strap has to match it exactly, because a narrower strap shifts and a wider one won't fit. Many straps also taper toward the buckle, which changes how heavy the watch looks on the wrist.

Length matters as much as width. Straps come in short, regular and long lengths, and made-to-measure straps can be cut to your wrist so the buckle sits centered and the tail doesn't flap. A specialist will measure your wrist with the watch on, which is the easiest way to get it right first time.

Thickness and stiffness change the fit as well. A thick padded strap suits a large sports watch and looks clumsy on a slim dress watch, while a thin, flat strap does the reverse. Bring the watch to the fitting, because a strap that looks right in a catalogue can look wrong against a particular case.

Leather is the classic choice for dress and everyday watches, with calfskin, alligator, ostrich and suede among the common options. It wears in and shapes to the wrist but doesn't like water or heat, so it's the wrong strap for swimming or a hot summer outdoors.

Rubber and fitted rubber straps suit divers and sports watches, shrugging off water and sweat, and many brands now make rubber straps that fit a specific case exactly. Fabric straps, including the single-pass NATO style that threads under the watch, are casual, light and cheap to swap, and the extra layer under the case keeps the watch on the wrist if a spring bar fails.

Metal bracelets aside, a few materials sit between these: sailcloth and canvas look like fabric but hold up better to moisture, and some leathers are treated to resist water. Whatever you choose, plan on replacing straps from time to time, since they wear out long before the watch does and a tired strap makes a good watch look neglected.

Color and texture are the other half of the decision. A strap that picks up a color from the dial or a contrast stitch that matches the hands can transform a watch, and specialists who make straps to measure can match those details closely. Bring the watch rather than a photo, since screen colors are rarely accurate.

Most straps attach with spring bars, small sprung pins that sit in holes inside the lugs. Changing them needs a spring bar tool and a steady hand, because one slip scratches a polished lug. That's a good reason to have a specialist fit a new strap, especially on an expensive or vintage watch.

Quick-release spring bars have a small lever that lets you swap straps by hand in seconds, and many modern straps come fitted with them. They're convenient for anyone who changes straps often. Check that the watch's lugs suit them and that the bars are a quality fit, since a cheap spring bar is the weak point in any strap.

Spring bars wear out too. If a strap has been on for years, or if the bar feels loose or doesn't snap firmly into place, replace it, because a failed spring bar is the most common way a watch ends up on the pavement. They're inexpensive, and a specialist can fit the right diameter and length for your lugs.

A standard tang buckle is simple and light. A deployant clasp folds open and closed so the strap never bends through the buckle, which reduces wear on leather and makes it harder to drop the watch while putting it on. Many brands make deployants matched to their own straps, and specialists can fit universal versions.

If your watch came with a signed buckle or clasp from the brand, keep it with the watch's box and papers even if you switch to another strap. Original signed buckles add to a complete set when you sell.

Size matters with buckles as well: the buckle width has to match the strap's tapered end, which is usually narrower than the lug width. If you buy a strap from one maker and a buckle from another, check both measurements so the buckle doesn't rattle or pinch the leather.

A watch winder keeps an automatic watch running when it's off the wrist by turning it gently through the day. It's useful for watches with complications like perpetual calendars or moon phases that are tedious to reset, but for most watches it's a convenience; letting a watch stop and resetting it does no harm.

Good storage protects a collection from scratches, dust and knocks. Look for a box or drawer with soft, separate compartments so watches don't touch. For travel, a padded case or roll that holds each watch apart keeps them safe in a bag, and a hard case is worth it for anything valuable you're putting through airport security.

Keep watches away from strong magnets, which can affect the timekeeping of mechanical movements; speaker magnets, phone cases with magnetic closures and some handbag clasps are common culprits. If a watch suddenly runs very fast after being stored or carried, a watchmaker can demagnetize it in minutes.

For a growing collection, think about insurance alongside storage. Insurers often ask for appraisals, photographs and serial numbers, and keeping those records with the watches, or in a safe place apart from them, makes any claim far simpler if something goes missing.