Quai des Bergues

The collection that launched the revived house

The Quai des Bergues launched in 2015, with its No. 33bis winning the public prize at the 2016 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. The brand says its design took inspiration from an 1850 pocket watch made by François Czapek, which had two low-set subdials. Those subdials are the signature of the collection and the first thing most people recognize in a Quai des Bergues.

Since its launch, the collection has expanded into several case sizes and dial treatments, including the No. 25 family with grand feu enamel dials. Enamel is a traditional finish with a distinct look, and it is also more delicate than a printed dial. For the owner, the practical point is that a Quai des Bergues can differ a great deal from another one, even when both wear the same name.

The SXH1 movement and its seven-day reserve

The SXH1 is a hand-wound caliber developed with Jean-François Mojon and Chronode. It has two mainspring barrels and a power reserve of more than 168 hours, which is seven days, and it runs at 3 Hz with 31 jewels and 160 components. Later Czapek technical sheets list the movement at 32 mm across and 4.75 mm thick. The updated version uses a variable-inertia balance and a Breguet overcoil, and the decoration includes partially openworked bridges, hand chamfering and heat-blued screws.

A seven-day reserve asks more of a watchmaker than a standard 40-hour movement. Two barrels mean two mainsprings to check, and the reserve indicator at 4:30 should be checked on the bench. Ask the shop how it inspects the barrels and the reserve indicator, and whether it will test the timing across a full winding cycle before returning the watch.

Czapek recommends a full overhaul every four to five years for its watches, and the steps include dismantling, cleaning, lubrication, timing adjustment, new seals and a water-resistance test. The seven-day movement does not change that schedule.

Servicing a Quai des Bergues

A watch still within its three-year warranty should go to the brand first. Start with the Geneva boutique and its after-sales team, and send the reference, serial number, purchase date and a description of the fault before you ship. Ask the brand to confirm the warranty position, the repair destination and any estimate before the watch leaves your hands.

Out of warranty, an independent who works regularly on hand-wound Swiss movements is a reasonable choice. Ask how the shop handles the barrels, what it does with the reserve indicator, and whether it has worked on other movements with two barrels. Parts for a relatively new in-house caliber may take longer, so ask about lead times on any component the shop expects to replace.

Ask for a written estimate that separates the movement, the case and any dial work. If the dial is enamel, that job should go to someone who handles enamel dials, and it should be quoted on its own line. Keep the case polish and dial repair as separate decisions, so you can see what each one costs before approving it.

Dial care, enamel and the case

The Quai des Bergues is a dress watch, and most owners wear it in an office or on a formal occasion. The case and crystal are the parts most likely to take a knock, so ask for the crystal to be checked for scratches and for the crown to be examined for signs of damage. A dress case is also easy to over-polish, which softens the lines of the bezel and lugs.

Grand feu enamel is fired at high temperature and can chip or crack if it is struck. Repairs are a specialist job, and not every watchmaker can take on enamel. Before you agree to any case or dial work, ask whether the shop will protect the dial during reassembly and whether it has handled enamel before. Settle the plan for any dial work in writing before the watch is opened.

Keep the watch away from strong magnets and heat, and have the reserve indicator checked at service so you know it is reading correctly. If the dial or hands look different after work, ask the shop to explain what was changed and to return any replaced part.

Pre-owned Quai des Bergues: reference, dial and reserve

Start with the reference. The collection has many variants, including different dial finishes, case sizes and water ratings, so a reference number tells you more than the model name. Check the box, warranty card and service documents against the reference and serial number. Ask the seller to show the reserve indicator working, since a watch that has been stored for a long time may need attention before it runs as expected.

Look at the dial closely. On enamel versions, check for hairline cracks, chips at the edges and any sign of a replaced dial. On any version, look at the hands and the subdials, and confirm that the low-set subdials are aligned and clean. Open the caseback if you can, and ask for the movement to be identified by caliber before you buy.

Ask for an independent report that covers the movement, dial and case separately. A report that says only that the watch runs is not enough for a purchase at this level, and a seller who refuses an inspection is giving you an answer.

Choosing a specialist for a Quai des Bergues

Look for a shop that can name the caliber and explain how it handles two barrels and a seven-day reserve. Ask whether it has worked on hand-wound Swiss movements with a long reserve, and whether it will show you the timing results after a service. A shop that can do this clearly is one you can trust with a watch of this kind.

For enamel dials, ask whether the shop works with a specialist enameller or handles the work itself, and how it will protect the dial during the case work. For the case, ask how the crystal is replaced and whether the shop will test water resistance if the reference is rated for it.

A good specialist will tell you what can wait and what cannot. A watch that runs well but has a tired barrel or a worn crown should be treated differently from one that stops, and a clear plan is the best sign of a shop that knows what it is doing.

What to check on a Quai des Bergues

• Experience with hand-wound movements that have two barrels and a seven-day reserve
• Care with enamel dials, including a specialist route for chips and cracks
• A timing check across a full winding cycle before the watch is returned
• Papers and a reference check before any pre-owned purchase

Common questions