Classic

From the Galet to the Classic

Laurent Ferrier launched in 2010 with the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral, and the round, pebble-shaped case gave the line its first name. The Galet Micro-Rotor followed with an automatic movement and a natural escapement. The brand's own history places the automatic caliber's release in 2012, when the first deliveries were announced.

The round model was later renamed the Classic, and the Micro-Rotor's name changed with it. Listings and dealers still use both names, so a seller who says Galet Micro-Rotor is describing the same line. A name change doesn't mean a new movement generation, so check the reference and caliber rather than the name.

The round Classic has come in several materials and dial colors over the years, including stainless steel, 18k white gold, 18k red gold and grade 5 titanium. The reference, not the family name, tells you which version a given watch is, so match the two before you compare prices or service notes. Ask for the reference first, then the dial color and the case material, and only then the family name.

Inside the FBN 229.01

The FBN 229.01 is an automatic caliber in a movement 31.60 mm across and 4.35 mm thick, with 35 jewels and 186 components. It beats at 3 Hz and holds a 72-hour reserve. The solid 18k gold micro-rotor is off-center, mounted between the mainplate and a dedicated bridge, with a silent block system to absorb shocks.

The escapement is natural, with a double direct impulse on the balance. The pallet lever is silicon, and the escape wheels are nickel-phosphorus made by the LIGA process. Those choices put a different set of parts at the heart of the watch from a standard Swiss movement, so a generalist should check what they're working with before they start.

The finishing includes Côtes de Genève bridges, a circular-grained mainplate, hand-drawn flanks, bevelled wheel spokes and a hand-polished micro-rotor bridge. Finishing like this shows every scratch, so ask that the bridges be examined before and after any work.

Servicing the Classic

The manual says workshop-only intervention is required to keep the guarantee. The Plan-les-Ouates workshop handles routine service and warranty repair, and the after-sales team should be your first contact before anything is shipped. The manual suggests a complete overhaul every four to five years, depending on the model and how it's used. Ask the workshop how the rotor's bearing and bridge are checked for play, since a rotor that moves unevenly will show in the winding.

A slim micro-rotor movement leaves little room for error on reassembly. Ask for a check of the winding, the reserve and the rate in several positions after any work, and ask the workshop to confirm the micro-rotor turns freely. Also ask that the work order say whether the job is routine maintenance or a repair, since that affects the guarantee.

Out of guarantee, a watchmaker who works on hand-finished movements can be worth a second opinion. Ask them to leave the caseback and dial alone unless you agree otherwise in writing, and confirm they can source parts for the FBN 229.01 before they open the movement.

Buying a pre-owned Classic

Ask for the certificate of authenticity and guarantee, the purchase invoice and the box if there is one. The reference should match the dial, the case material and the caseback. Ask who issued the papers, since the guarantee depends on the official retailer's stamp and signature. Ask a seller whether the papers match the case material, because the round Classic has been made in several metals.

Check the case and dial under good light, because the finishing shows light scratches quickly. Test the winding and the reserve, and see whether the micro-rotor moves freely. Ask for a written note of any outside work, because unauthorized servicing is one of the guarantee's exclusions.

Ask when the watch was last serviced and where. If nobody knows, budget for a full inspection before you rely on the watch. Keep every invoice and service note in one folder, including any work done outside the brand, with a note of what it covered.

Daily care, dial and case finish

A round, quietly finished watch keeps its look with simple habits. Clean the case and crystal with a soft cloth, and keep the watch dry after time in the water or in heat. Store it away from other watches and hard jewelry, since fine finishing on the case edges and the bevelled bridges marks easily under contact.

Check the dial and hands at each service. Ask the watchmaker to note any dial replacement, polishing or hand adjustment, because those changes affect originality and the value of the watch. A record that names each part is far more useful to the next owner than a general statement that the watch has been serviced.

A micro-rotor watch is worth wearing. Its winding is quiet and it responds to daily motion, but a watch rarely worn should be wound by hand and set again before use, since the reserve is only 72 hours. A regular routine keeps the movement in good condition and gives you a dependable time to check the watch against.

What to check on a Classic

• Respect for the workshop-only rule that protects the guarantee
• Familiarity with the FBN 229.01 and its natural escapement
• Checks on the micro-rotor, winding and reserve after any work
• Papers and a service history checked before purchase

Common questions