Brand Guides / Rolex / Rolex Datejust
Reviewed by the Fine Watch Guide team · October 2026
The Datejust, introduced in 1945, was the first self-winding wristwatch with a date that changes automatically at midnight in a window on the dial, and it remains Rolex's most varied everyday model.
The Datejust has been made in so many sizes, metals, dials and bezels that two examples can look like different watches. That variety is its appeal, and it's also why buyers of pre-owned Datejusts need someone who knows which combinations Rolex actually made.
The standard overhaul applies, with particular attention to the date mechanism. A date that changes slowly, sticks halfway or jumps at the wrong time usually needs cleaning and adjustment in the calendar works. Fluted gold bezels and the Cyclops magnifier over the date are also worth inspecting, since both get knocked in daily wear.
Datejusts are often worn every day for decades, so bracelets take a beating. Jubilee bracelets in particular stretch, and a bracelet specialist can tighten them, though a fully restored bracelet on a vintage watch can look out of place next to an honestly aged case.
The Datejust's huge range of factory options makes it easy to sell watches that Rolex never built: aftermarket diamond dials and bezels, refinished dials in colors that were never offered, or cases and bracelets from different eras married together. None of these are necessarily fakes, but they are worth much less than all-original watches.
A pre-purchase inspection should confirm that the dial, bezel, bracelet and case suit the reference and its period. Added diamonds are the most common modification, and an experienced eye can usually spot them quickly.
Older Datejusts with original dials have grown steadily more collectible, and the same originality rules apply as with sports models. Ask for the dial and hands to stay original, for polishing to be light or skipped, and for any replaced parts to be returned.
Rolex designed the five-link Jubilee bracelet for the Datejust in 1945, and it's still the bracelet most people picture on the watch. It's comfortable and dressy, with many small links that each wear a little; older Jubilees can stretch noticeably, while the three-link Oyster bracelet is plainer and more resistant to stretch. Both are repairable: worn pins and links can be replaced, and a watchmaker can tighten up a tired bracelet without swapping it for a new one.
On two-tone Rolesor models, which combine steel with yellow or rose gold, the gold center links wear faster than the steel outer ones, because gold is softer. Light polishing can tidy them, but heavy polishing thins the links and takes the crisp edges with it. Ask for a gentle clean rather than a full refinish unless the bracelet is genuinely beat up.
The Datejust has come in more sizes, dials and metal combinations than nearly any other Rolex, from small ladies' versions to the modern 41mm. The 36mm version is the classic size and still suits most wrists; the 41mm wears noticeably larger. Fluted bezels on Datejusts are made in gold, which is why they have that bright, slightly warm shine next to a steel case.
Variety is good for buyers and bad for sellers of modified watches. With so many correct combinations, a dial, bezel or bracelet from a different reference can look perfectly plausible to a casual eye. Before you buy, have a specialist confirm that the parts match the reference stamped between the lugs, and keep their written note with the watch's papers.
Most Datejust problems that come through a watch shop's door are self-inflicted, and the most common is setting the date at the wrong time of day. On many older calibers, forcing the quickset date while the date wheel is already engaging, roughly in the hours either side of midnight, puts stress on the date mechanism. The safe habit is to move the hands to around six o'clock, set the date, then set the time.
Datejusts trade in huge numbers, so paperwork and service history make a real difference to price. A watch with its original box, warranty card and recent service receipts is easier to trust and easier to sell, while a watch without them isn't automatically suspect but should cost less and get a closer look. Keep every service invoice you receive; the next buyer will ask for them.
Ask the seller when the watch was last serviced and by whom, and factor in a full service if they don't know. A Datejust that runs well today can still be overdue, and the cost of that overhaul belongs in your offer.
Slow or partial date changes usually point to wear or old lubrication in the calendar mechanism. It is a routine fix during a service.
They are real Rolex watches with non-factory additions, and the market values them well below factory diamond models. Know which you're buying before you pay.
It was designed for it. Daily wear just means bracelets and crystals need occasional attention, and the case should be pressure-tested if you get it wet.
It can be, as long as a specialist confirms the dial and parts are original. The model's variety makes inspection more important, not less.
Rolex Datejust owners use Rolex specialists for servicing, authentication and restoration.
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