Oris Aquis

From the 1965 diver to the Aquis

Oris's first diver dates to 1965 and was rated to 100 metres. The modern collection took shape through the TT Divers and ProDiver lines in the 2000s, and the Aquis followed in 2011 with a 300 metre rating and a case built around a screw-down crown. The unidirectional bezel and the integrated-style strap attachments gave it a silhouette that most dive-watch fans now recognize at a glance, and that silhouette has carried through every generation since.

The family kept growing after the launch. The Aquis Depth Gauge added a depth scale in 2013, and Divers Sixty-Five arrived in 2015 with a name that points back to the 1965 original. Oris has since used the Aquis name for many sizes, dial colors and movements, so the name alone does not tell you the caliber, the case size or the bracelet. Check the reference before you compare one listing with another.

That breadth suits buyers, because the Aquis works as an everyday watch and as a serious dive tool, depending on the size and strap. It also means the same family can include watches with quite different service needs. A 2011-era Aquis and a 2020-era Calibre 400 should be treated as separate jobs from the start.

Calibre 733, Calibre 400 and what servicing involves

The original Aquis Date used Calibre 733, a movement based on the Sellita SW200, with the date at six o'clock. Oris's own Calibre 400 arrived in October 2020, first in a 43.5 millimetre Aquis Date, and it brought a five-day power reserve, high magnetic resistance and a recommended ten-year service interval. Oris's helpcenter describes the 400 family as its own design rather than a modified Sellita, which matters when you choose a watchmaker.

Servicing a dive watch is about the seals as much as the movement. A proper service includes new gaskets for the crown and caseback, a check of the bezel action and a pressure test at the end. Oris suggests checking water resistance about every three years, so keep a record of each test. A Sellita-based Aquis can go to many independent watchmakers, but a Calibre 400 should go to someone with the correct parts and procedure, and Oris's own workshop is the simplest route for a full overhaul.

The bezel deserves its own check during a service. The unidirectional mechanism should click back with a firm, even action. Slack or gritty movement usually points to a worn spring or grit under the insert, and a watchmaker can often fix that without replacing the whole bezel. Ask for that check to be written up on the invoice so the next owner knows it was done.

Buying a pre-owned Aquis

Check the bezel first. A unidirectional bezel should click back firmly with no play, and a worn or replaced insert changes the look of the watch as well as its function. Look at the crystal for scratches that affect legibility, and check the crown for thread damage. A crown that doesn't screw down cleanly is a sign of work that needs doing before you wear the watch in water.

Ask whether the watch has been pressure tested since its last service, and get the result in writing. Water resistance depends on the gaskets, and an old crown gasket can let moisture in even when the watch looks fine. A recent test tells a buyer far more than a claim of 300 metres on a listing.

Confirm the reference against the caseback and the papers. The Aquis has been made in many sizes and dial variants, so a mismatch between the dial, the bracelet and the caseback is worth asking about. Rubber straps age, and integrated-style attachments make some replacements awkward to fit. Budget for a fitted strap or bracelet along with any service.

Care, straps and originality

Rinse the watch in fresh water after salt water and let it dry before storing it, because salt collects under the strap and around the bezel. Replace rubber straps when they stiffen or crack near the lugs. Use a strap made for the exact attachment, since a poor fit puts strain on the lugs and makes the watch harder to close.

Originality is mostly about parts. Bezels, dials and hands on dive watches get replaced after heavy use, and collectors pay attention to whether those parts are original. Keep the box, papers and invoices, since they help the next buyer trust the history. Be cautious with aftermarket crowns or cases that come without documentation.

Owners who wear the Aquis on its bracelet most days should check the clasp and the pins at each service. Bracelet links can loosen over time, and a loose link on a dive watch is a practical problem as well as a cosmetic one. A short check at the service desk takes a few minutes and can prevent a lost watch.

The Aquis is worn in and out of water, so it pays to have the watchmaker look at the strap attachments and lugs at every service. A small crack there is far cheaper to fix than a lost watch.

What to check on a Oris Aquis

• Bezel that clicks back firmly with no play
• Recent pressure test result, in writing
• Reference, caliber and caseback that agree with each other
• Original crown and caseback with no mismatched parts

Common questions