Girard-Perregaux Specialists

Constant Girard presented his tourbillon with three parallel bridges in 1867, and the idea has defined the brand since. The bridges hold the barrel, gear train and tourbillon in view, turning what could have been hidden structure into the watch's main visual statement. Girard patented a refined version in the United States in 1884, and the three gold bridges of La Esmeralda won a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1889.

The modern watches carry that idea forward. The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges uses caliber GP09400, and its bridges also serve as the mainplate, which is why the movement appears to float. The design shows why the brand's manufacturing knowledge matters. The bridges are the structure of the movement, not decoration added afterward.

The name is younger than the heritage. The brand points to 1791, when Jean-François Bautte began making watches in Geneva, and the firm took the Girard-Perregaux name in 1856. Since 2022 the company has belonged to Sowind Group, which management bought from Kering. Sowind also owns Ulysse Nardin, so the two brands share a parent company.

A three-bridge movement is a harder service than a standard automatic. Each bridge carries pivots and bearings that have to be cleaned, oiled and set correctly, and a tourbillon adds a rotating carriage with its own tolerances. A competent independent can handle a Girard-Perregaux with a conventional automatic movement. A tourbillon belongs with someone who has done that work before, and the same is true for any watch whose bridges are visible and easy to mark with a careless hand.

Ask what the service includes. For a complicated piece, a quote should cover the tourbillon carriage, the escapement and a check of the bridges' alignment, with a pressure test if the case is sealed. Because the movement is visible through the dial, the finishing on the bridges matters. Ask how the shop handles polishing or refinishing on the movement, and whether it will return any parts it replaces. Each bridge is a reference point for the rest of the movement, so a careful reassembly matters as much as the cleaning, and a shop should be able to describe how it checked the bridges' alignment after closing the movement.

For watches still under warranty, or where parts are hard to source, the brand's service network is the safer first call. For a complicated piece out of warranty, an independent with tourbillon experience can be a good option, but get the parts question answered in writing before the watch leaves your hands. If the watch is sealed, insist on the pressure test before it goes home, and ask for the result in writing as well.

The Laureato debuted in 1975 with an octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet, and the design has been reissued in many forms since. The original was quartz-powered, which matters when you compare vintage and modern versions, because a quartz model and an automatic one need different service. Check the caliber in any Laureato before you plan the work, and don't assume a later version behaves like the first.

A steel integrated bracelet takes most of the knocks on a Laureato. Link removal and fitting are routine for a watchmaker, but the bracelet's finish and the case's polished surfaces need careful handling. Each polish softens the octagonal lines, so ask for refinishing only where the metal actually needs it. A bracelet that has been stretched or pulled with the wrong tools can be hard to restore to its original fit.

Water resistance is worth checking at every service. A Laureato is worn daily and in all sorts of weather, and the gaskets around the crown and caseback do the work that keeps moisture out. Ask for them to be checked and replaced when needed, and for a pressure test before the watch goes back on your wrist. Ask the shop to show you the test result rather than just telling you it passed, because a number on paper is easier to trust than a verbal assurance.

Any popular steel sports watch attracts copies, and a Laureato is no exception. Insist on the papers and check the serial number, the caseback engraving and the reference against the box and documents. A caseback that has been opened with the wrong tool, a bracelet that doesn't match the case, or a reference that doesn't line up with the papers are all warning signs. Walk away from any of them until someone has looked closely.

For a three-bridge or tourbillon piece, the movement is the proof. Ask for an inspection that opens the case and checks the bridges, the tourbillon carriage and the fit of the dial. Photos of the movement from the seller don't answer the question. A specialist should be able to say whether the watch has had movement parts replaced and whether the case has been refinished.

Ask about the bracelet and clasp separately. Replacement bracelets and clasps are common on sports watches, and a mismatched set changes both the value and the fit. A seller who knows the history of each part is a good sign, and one who doesn't is worth a closer look. Ask for the bracelet to be measured and compared with the case reference before you agree on a price, since a mismatched bracelet can change the fit as well as the value.

For a three-bridge complication, look for a watchmaker who has handled tourbillons or other high complications regularly, and who will explain the work in detail before starting. For a Laureato, a shop that knows bracelets and sports watches will often be more useful, since fit, finishing and seals usually matter more than the movement on a daily wearer.

For buying, an authenticator who works on top-tier modern watches should produce a written report that covers the movement, case, bracelet and papers separately. Ask whether the shop will open the case in front of you or send photographs of each step. Either can work, provided the report says what was checked and what wasn't.

Keep the service record with the papers. A clear history makes the next visit faster and makes the watch easier to value if you sell. Bring both to the first appointment, and you'll learn quickly whether a shop is ready to take on the work.